Fast fashion: more thoughts
The discovery of several new and inspiring blogs to read over the past week has led me to reassess my somewhat confused yet passionate opinions regarding fast fashion, something which I have touched upon in previous posts, yet never truly attempted to dissect. And I am not so sure that I shall be able to elaborate much further here, but there are a couple of thoughts that I would like to share, with a view to revisiting the topic, randomly, in future posts.
I have been pondering what had initially led me to these conclusions, how my awareness of brand ethics and quality has evolved, and it is such a joy to have been able to connect with other bloggers from all over the globe with a similar mission or mindset. Sometimes I have felt that my more introspective posts are a little like 'shoe gazing', perhaps a tad self indulgent however 'serious' the topic. And yet, this particular type of introspection does appear to have a legitimate purpose: questioning why and how we choose to consume can only ever lead to some sort of positive (if terrifying) self knowledge, and a broader appreciation of the very concept of consumerism itself. A rather scary monster....which can hopefully be tamed! And in essence, this is exactly why I began to blog as LapindeLune. I wanted to learn to understand what made me tick, style-wise, inspired greatly by other blogs with a similar approach to dressing and shopping. And so, to cut a longish story short, this post is more or less a re-evaluation of where I am at, what has really changed concerning my views about fast fashion, and how I might wish to go forward.
The internal struggle: I didn't entirely cut out high street shopping (I would say that around 10% of my clothing/cosmetic expenditure heads in this direction). This isn't remotely a necessity either, so I wonder what possessed me. I suppose that I didn't exactly wish to become too preoccupied with avoidance, yet the more I learn about fast fashion, the more I develop an aversion to it. But this led me to ponder the question: what about those who cannot afford to quit? Forget myself for a moment, and imagine how an individual who cannot afford to shop ethically should feel in view of this information. This hypothetical person may be no less compassionate than I with a view to working conditions overseas, or ignorant to questions of quality, yet they simply cannot find a way out of the fast fashion cul-de-sac. I suspect that the clenched jaws of fast fashion feed most handsomely off those who survive upon a low income. Of course, those of us who are privileged enough to have the option, even upon a low to moderate income (like my own) are able to observe, conserve and plan our wardrobes meticulously. Even if we are scraping to save every penny for that much loved apc cardigan, we are still in a position to make that choice. And this is what troubles me most about fast fashion: how on earth does someone who can barely afford to dress their children opt to shop ethically? For many, saving is not an option, for every penny (or dollar or whatever you prefer) which comes in is already destined out again. This even surpasses the issue of education, for however aware or conscientious an individual may be, there is still the question of resources. Perhaps there are extremely affordable, ethical companies in existence - but if so, I am not aware of them. And if they do exist, they are most certainly less visible, less shouty than the great gods at H&M, Primark, Topshop.... or whatever your country's equivalent may be. This is why I consider fast fashion to be something of a trap, and like the fast food industry...it knows its prey. The polarizing extremes of need (poverty) and indulgence (greed) help to keep it in constant motion. This is exactly why fast fashion thrives, why it is still in existence, and why it is highly unlikely to disappear anytime soon.
This is something of a generalisation, of course, because many wealthy or decently-off folks are happy to purchase high street clothes. There are those who waste copious amounts of money renewing their wardrobes on a monthly basis - and I have often wondered what lies at the root of this type of addiction, this incessant desire to throw away and renew (mmm, lovely landfill). But this is sending me off topic, slightly. The problem is when there isn't a choice. And although this particular issue doesn't affect me personally, it is certainly one of the more depressing, troubling symptoms of an eternally accelerating capitalist culture, in which livelihoods are expendable and conscience has become a dirty word.
Whilst I may dream of a grass roots solution to fast fashion - and here we have to accept that ethically sourced, well made garments would cost more than Primark - I still wonder what options are truly available to those who cannot afford or are yet too young to collect higher quality clothes (suggestions of 'let them eat cake', or 'learn to sew!' are rarely helpful!). I can only just afford to make the choice myself, for a non-famous illustrator's budget is notoriously unpredictable - my monthly income is somewhat low to moderate, yet I am able to purchase from my wishlist when I am rewarded by decent commissions, which only drop in on a very random basis. But I don't drive, I rent my home (so no maintenance fees) and I don't have children, so it is relatively easy for me conserve. However, this still leaves me with too many questions, not enough answers, dismay at the state of things, and a great deal of fuzzy confusion. I can wholeheartedly quit fast fashion tomorrow if I so desire, and I am sure that I shall, given time, but I wonder... could there be such a thing as too strict a stance? Throw-away fashion does not deliver quality goods, yet the 'average' consumer remains curiously convinced that this poorly constructed merchandise is actually 'cheap'. No, it isn't cheap at all, it is vastly overpriced. If we close our eyes tight enough, perhaps the horrendous demands on factory workers (sweatshops) will go away, like the bogey man who vanishes when you turn on the light. And maybe after all we shall discover that the fast fashion-bogey man is no other than 'Sir' Philip Green himself, a man who's ethical blunders and dubious politics leave me cold, the man who receives a knighthood for no less a noble deed than having become unfathomably wealthy without a conscience. But then I am also concerned about the 'production' of calfskin, cosmetic testing and.....the list might turn out to be infinite (inner conflict alert), and aren't many higher end brands no less blame worthy for their ridiculous overpricing? (there's an interesting discussion about this very topic going on at the fashion spot right now, too). Where is that eagerly sought after middle ground? I am still searching.
As of right now, I am certainly much closer to my initial intention of realising my 'ideal' wardrobe, with occasional mishaps (bring on the mini cull) along the way. As I've said previously, it is an ongoing process, a journey of sorts. And although I am still confused by and wary of brands, I am steadily learning how to perfect my research. I am also thinking of starting to create lists: compiling images or written notes really does help to create a clearer picture of what we already own, what we may need to purchase, and what seriously needs to go! My most current challenges concern closet organisation, learning how to negotiate stand alone pieces (which may be little exceptions to my standard uniform), and puzzling out the concept of quality versus actual value. I hope to expand upon these, however intermittently, in future posts.
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Humility note: I always sense that my writing style comes across as pompous! Perhaps it is a sort of sadistic, unconscious mechanism which kicks in whenever I publicly share an opinion.....as if I am preaching or yodelling from a soapbox, or something. Please forgive me if it seems that way to you, too. x
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Reader Comments (30)
I think thrift might be one alternative to fast fashion, although a lot of thrift items come from those same stores. But thrift requires a lot of dedication, while fast fashion is easy. It's also a lot more stylish than what used to be offered as low-cost clothing back when I was a kid.
I appreciate your long posts. "Yodelling from a soapbox" made me laugh.
I had a conversation with friends some months back on this - we were depressed even the mobile phones we so depend on come at a such - not just cheap human labour but also environmental (rare earth extraction etc). "Everything we touch is poisoned," we said.
My reaction was to move off the grid and become a hermit. Her reaction was to join and work for organisations to lobby for change in how we make things and how we consume things. One of us is waaay more fatalistic than the other, sadly.
I don't think there are right answers when it comes to choosing what we buy or don't buy, because much of what we use, even the necessities, exact their own toll, and one is not necessarily worse than the other. It's like the dilemma of whether to use recycled paper - we chop down less trees, but we also consume way more fossil fuels in the process of manufacturing recycled paper. Or the desire to use organic products, but they aren't produced in my home country and I have to ship them from somewhere on the other side of the world - thus incurring a huge carbon footprint and probably cancelling out the benefits of consuming ethically.
It's all trade-offs, and for me it comes down to trying to lead a simple life - reducing the need to buy more products and making what I have last. Of course, if we all did this, the world's economy will probably come to a standstill and millions go unemployed because no one wants to buy what they produce. Looks bleak, doesn't it? Hahaha.
Nice post...you got me thinking. And more resolved to rein in my consumption habits and maximise the use of what I own.
Quinn, I used to try living this way when I was a student, but I could rarely find anything which actually worked for me in the correct size. It is something of a challenge, like you say, to sustain an entire wardrobe this way - although I am aware of people who have managed it successfully. It was great back when I was 18 and could play with vintage without having to wholeheartedly depend upon it. Although back then, prior to Topshops rise to fame, you could actually purchase some really decent stuff there.
Lin, I am something like you, after all! And quite a bit similar to your friend, also. I would simply love to wish it silently away, or perhaps retire from this culture entirely.......but Although I am not sure of a solution (as you mention, the issues are so far reaching and complicated that no single resolution is possible), one of my links in the post suggest pressurizing the retail bosses to improve wages and work conditions, as opposed to closing the factories and creating mass unemployment. One source claims that these people are working for less than the equivalent of 4 pence an hour, which is something like 8 cents in the US...? Not sure of other currencies.
I only realised how thoroughly depressing this post was after publishing it - which is amusing, but terribly sad.
What a great and thoughtful post. Very much appreciated. One of the things that make it easier for me to stay away from fast fashion (not that I'm tempted to spend money on poor quality anyway) is the environmental aspects. Fast fashion is just like low carb diet and fast food; it's not anywhere near sustainable and merely eating up the world. Another option to thrifting is organic clothes. I know that a few fast fashion stores are doing organic collections from time to time, but that's not enough. After all, it's totally up to the designers and producers, shall they choose to make green fashion for people or not? Money is power, and with all that power money has we can steer how the world is developing. Like, if H&M realized that they should go into doing 100% sustainable fashion, the rest of the world (consumers) will follow suit because consumers possess money, and money is power. Does this make any sense? Haha!
Fleurette, it makes complete sense, and I also feel that this might be the only solution. I also think it is important to emphasize the role the consumer plays, too. After all, the retailers are responding to a demand - even if I suspect that they initiated the problem by competitive price cutting with which to tempt the consumer in the first place. It is very difficult to get people to shift, though, for the regular high street shopper will still head for the bargain - it appears to have become ingrained in our culture now that quantity is preferable to quality, so to shift this mindset will take some doing. Minds have become dulled by bargains and choice at ridiculously low prices. You only have to venture into a Topshop store during a sale..... like walking into a hornets nest. It seems to affect people like a drug.
Awareness is all we have, and it can't hurt to do our part and to hope that eventually, the consumers themselves will pressure these retailers into taking some action.
As you said in a comment above, "pressurizing the retail bosses to improve wages and work conditions, as opposed to closing the factories and creating mass unemployment" is probably the key factor in the scheme of things. Unfortunately, when companies like Topshop or H&M do get caught out for turning a blind eye to the dire ethical problems with factories in their production line (alas, they only get caught out when something out of the ordinary happens - a factory of a thousand people working in disgusting conditions won't get attention, but when it catches fire and people die, it's slightly more likely to end up in the news, and I really do mean only "slightly"), their reaction is usually to distance themselves from the problem by terminating their contract with the factory. However, that means all the employees are suddenly without any pay at all, and the factory owners get desperate and end up cutting even more unrealistic deals with some other clothing brand, resulting in the employees having to work extra hours but without pay to fill the order, under increased pressure and often increased threats of violence.
There are millions of people around the world, particularly in economically disadvantaged countries, who depend on the clothing industry for their income, and I don't think other industries could absorb those employees if everyone just drastically cut or halted their clothes-buying or switched to thrifting. So the only solution here really is, as you said, to pressure the retail bosses into ensuring their companies adhere to strict criteria of ethics. It's not an easy or inexpensive thing for a company to commit to, since it means audits and inspections and policy-writing and basically a whole new fleet of staff to measure and enforce ethics standards. But there are companies that have achieved a moderate degree of success in clamping down on unethical production lines (after the sweatshop revelations of the 90s, Nike has actually become a front-runner for ethical quality) and the thing is - these companies can afford that cost anyway. H&M turned a profit of 18.68 billion Swedish kronor in 2010, so about 2.77 billion USD or £1.75 billion. Sure, those profits would be reduced if the labour they used was fairly compensated and the materials they used were ethical and sustainable, but that is something that should always have been the case. The system should never have been about taking advantage of the poorest of the poor in order to increase profit margins, or cutting corners on the quality or sustainability of materials in order to keep well-off share-holders happy.
I think it mostly comes down to the inherent human tendency to turn a blind eye to things that aren't right in front of us, so I think it's really important that people such as yourself are discussing the issue and bringing it to wider attention. People have undeniably heard about sweatshop labour and suchlike, but they rationalise it by saying that Topshop and H&M and whoever are big multinational businesses - surely they don't need to rely on sweatshop workers? They probably use those good quality factories in China, right? And most of these clothes are made by automatic machines these days, aren't they? So maybe people aren't willfully ignorant on the topic of how prevalent horrific and inhumane working conditions are, but they don't go out of their way to find out the real info on the issue. So don't feel like you're being pompous or pretentious when you blog about these sorts of issues - you're helping to spread important information and to increase awareness about things that really desperately need to change, which can only be a good thing!
(Sorry for the super-massive comment!)
Jess, thankyou so much for such a thoughtful contribution!
I can barely add anything to the above apart from my total agreement with all that you have said - the last paragraph in particular (something I hadn't quite thought about).
They have the power to make changes, which they simply do not wish to act upon. The greed sickens me, but perhaps not so much as the knowledge that Sir Green is currently employed by our government - not surprising, considering they possess very similar moral perspectives.
Sometimes, I feel so angry I have to blank it out. I used to be quite good at this when I was younger, but I appear to have lost the knack!
And regarding my post: I do feel a little concerned as to how my words may be perceived by those who are happy to purchase fast fashion. I may appear to be judgmental of their choices, or else come over as a privileged snob. But this couldn't be further from the truth: I follow quite a number of bloggers who wear high street, many of whom I adore, and regardless my views about the brands under scrutiny, I tend not to associate these feelings with the human being behind the clothes. I am much the same way concerning animal fur, yet I appreciate my own hypocrisy (leather, etc) and would be loathe to impress my views on others, especially via the internet!. These are such private, personal things, which made me hesitate to press 'publish' this morning......but what concerns me here is the system itself, and perhaps the issue of mass consumption.....the cause and effect...the dangers of shopping addiction and ignorance. I shouldn't wish to alienate a lover of Topshop, but I should prefer she was aware of the malignancy that resides at the top.
I would like to address the problem of quality and prices, since I feel others have covered the idea of sustainability very well already. I do stay away from fast fashion a good 90% of the time, and the clothes I own are chiefly second-hand, with a few exceptions from APC (on sale) or independant designers.
However, one thing that frustrates me when it comes to high street clothing (this including bought second-hand) is its inconsitent reliability.
Take American Apparel: their production is ethical labour-wise, and part of it is classic, and cut fairly well. Still, after having had a good experience with one of their pairs of pants (thrifted) which has held its colour and shape after a year of frequent wear, I decided to purchase a second pair in another colour new; it lasted about a week before the seams started ripping, and the colour fading.
I feel there are so many variants in the problem of clothing production it is very difficult to tackle: the correlation between factory employees treatment and quality is, again, inconsistent, making the pricing almost arbitrary. On paper, I would rather buy from a company that offers good conditions to its employees and keeps its prices reasonable (American Apparel) than a company that has its items produced in countries known for the cheapness of their labour, and holds its prices high (APC).
Yes, I would rather pay more for something that will last longer, but I would rather buy it from a maker who is not inhumanly exploited. I find very frustrating how, in the end, consumers have very little choice when it comes to conciliating personal values and purchases. Yet, sometimes high street stores surprise us with the odd quality item... the question of quality/value puzzles me as well.
No, you don't sound pompous! I found this post very interesting (hopefully my comments does not come across as pompous itself!), and am still trying to figure out how to consume. So far, I'm going with second-hand (and half-throwing the responsibility on the clothes' previous owner).
Your post definitely considers many issues that is of serious concern. I have become more and more aware of the global impacts that fast fashion has on our planet, and through your post, and many others I've read like yours, I have become more conscientious of my purchases (particularly clothing). However, I have experienced, more than I'd like to, the dissatisfaction when I buy higher-end price clothing, (price=quality?), that does not always live up to my expectation (just like Camille above).Sometime I feel that I'm only buying into a hype or for the label. In my perspective, simplicity doesn't need to be so costly, there are stores out there who have good quality clothing at a lower price, it only comes down to a person's ability to reject the temptation of always having to purchase something they want rather than need because it's cheap. For example I have many uniqlo and zara tops that have lasted me 6 years or more (I know this because some of the pieces are older/just younger than my 6yrs old son). They have lastted the test of time for me-no holes, colour retention and fit. For me it all boils down to having the experience of knowing what is good and bad quality regardless of label/name, and need vs. want.
I don't think you must cut out "fast fashion" entirely-- it's just not doable for everyone (at least not yet). Thrifting is the best alternative. It does take patience, as another commenter noted, but it gets easier the more you do it. Knowing what you'll wear and knowing good quality when you see it are essential thrifting skills.
Etsy is another shopping alternative-- there are a lot of inexpensive things there. And then there's just getting used to buying a LOT less. This is what I'm trying to do. I can hardly believe how ingrained the shopping habit is for me; and how unnecessary most of it is. It comes down to having a few nice things and wearing them over and over. To quote Ines de la Fressange: "it’s always better to buy one pair of shoes that are too expensive than five compromises."
Leanne, most Etsy sellers are within the US, which would make it risky for me to purchase due to customs charges on delivery to the UK. The problem with vintage, for me, is that I can never actually pre-plan what I am searching for at any given point and actually hope to find it. It might take me months to locate the correct pair of jeans, and there are literally no decent outlets within many miles of my town, apart from those who sell high street rejects. But I agree with your suggestion of buying fewer items and using them over and over. This has become a primary focus for me recently.
J-A, this is exactly what concerns me with regards to purchasing high end items. I have experienced both good and bad results when paying for more expensive goods...yet I do not have a great deal of experience outside of apc. They cater to my own aesthetic so perfectly, but I do consider many of their items to be shockingly overpriced. I haven't had many dealings with uniqlo, but have heard great things about them, and Zara have proven to be hit or miss for me also, but I do own a few decent quality garments which have stood the test of time. You are right, it is definitely a game of chance, and opting to buy only higher end designer items doesn't strike me as an accessible or realistic solution, especially for those who are surviving on a low income. This is why I am seeking a comfortable middle ground, I guess this might turn out to be an idealized space between the overpriced and the downright corrupt.
Camille, I am very interested to know more about apc...I am not too aware of what goes on behind the scenes, and have heard rather a lot of conflicting information. Is there anything you could suggest that I read? Most of the items that I have purchased from apc have worked out well for me, although their sizing frequently creates confusion. Consistency is another can of worms, I agree. There's no greater example of this, for me, than Topshop jeans! I am both amazed and appalled by the ridiculous sizing inconsistencies, and am baffled as to why anyone would ever purchase a pair online (I've tried UK12 sized jeans that will not go past my mid thigh, and UK6's that swamp me). I would laugh if it wasn't so tragic.
Your point regarding the consumer having so little choice rings so true to me, which more or less underlies the main message in my post - that the typical consumer can rarely afford access to higher priced, higher quality garments - and yet when we DO pay more, we are not necessarily even guaranteed the satisfaction of 'quality'.
At present, I am satisfied with my apc and Toast purchases, which have been of far greater quality than my local high street offerings - although the sizing issues have proved themselves to go all across the board.
And the confusion continues...
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And thanks very much for sharing your thoughts:)
Once again another great thought provoking post. The lack of access many people have to precious resources like time (because all the time it takes to research is time that could have been spent doing something more materially productive) and money always comes to mind when I think of the crusades to demonize those who shop fast fashion. Even myself as a college student understand the constraints on pockets that may force someone to go the fast fashion route. There's no way I could justify to myself, no matter how much I saved, spending an inordinate amount of money on one item of clothing when I have other expenses like textbooks, a cell phone bill, plane tickets, and building a wardrobe for when I do have to enter the workforce, so I can't imagine how people with even more urgent concerns like children and mortgages with small incomes can either. I also feel like the demonization/pity people of higher economic status have for those who can only afford to shop high street is very patronizing. No one, no matter who they are should feel entitled to butt into someone's personal life to give unsolicited "advice" about how they should spend their money just because they're of lower economic status than them. It seems to me that if people of lower classes just walked into a Saks (or even Whole Foods) and told them of all the bad practices going on in the brands they buy and that they should immediately stop shopping there they would feel equally offended. This is not to say that I don't feel those who can shouldn't eliminate or at least reduce the amount of unethical clothing they consume, but that it's important to think about how people who may not have that opportunity feel as well.
Sorry for the ramble! Long nights with no sleep can do that.
I'm completely frazzled at the moment and this is probably going to be an incomplete and incoherent post but I just wanted to point out that we're spending about the same amount on clothes today as people did 50 years ago. Taking into account inflation, this doesn't make sense if all things are equal. This just means that the clothes we're buying are cheaper - and in order to produce cheaper clothes, manufacturers HAVE to cut corners (be it in terms of the environment, labor or material). People in lower income countries don't spend nearly as much on disposable clothing as people do in industrialized nations. They simply can't afford to.
People used to spend a lot of their income on clothing - and because they spent so much, their clothing had to last. The problem today is that with the onset of globalization and free trade, markets are suddenly saturated with an influx of clothing so cheap it would be madness not to take advantage of it. I think it's also a basic flaw in human logic, why settle for one item that costs $10 when you can get 10 for the same price? And unfortunately, years of oversaturation of cheap products has made us think that this is the norm. We now have a very distorted view of market value. Cheap goods have allowed us to keep up with the Beckhams or the WAGS or whomever we want to emulate.
Camisablanca, these are incredibly important points, which are repeated throughout my post, so thanks for raising the lid on this perspective. This is what bothers me. A bit off topic, but I'm reminded of the issues surrounding education, how many people (and I mean a massive amount) cannot and never will be able to afford an education after high school. There's 'privilege' lying at the root of many of these misunderstandings, a very uncomfortable topic in itself.
But there are many who still believe that we can all get an education if we are 'sensible', if we try hard enough. But this is far from the truth. There is a common misconception that anything is possible, but sadly it isn't.
This is why I referred to fast fashion as a trap, a sort of predator who knows its prey very well. THEY know who can and can't afford to jump ship. The majority of people simply are stuck with high street and have few alternatives available to them. Priorities are also huge on the agenda, and a regular working class mother would laugh in your face if you suggested she spent her small portion of yearly savings on ONE dress from NAP instead of a collection of pretty things from Topshop (or Primark, because let's face it, not everyone can afford Topshop either). And can you blame her, really? I certainly do not.
MIDPOST EDIT: I don't pretend to know of a quick solution, but I do think that it helps the consumer to be aware of brand practices. We need to pull our heads out of the sand, to perhaps make an effort to buy less, yet higher quality clothing... presuming we are able to. The problem remains that there are folks who cannot even afford to purchase from Topshop, who are not over consuming. They should not be targeted negatively for attempting to live as sensibly and happily as they can.
Amanda, we certainly have developed a distorted view of market value - and your comment reminds me of conversations I have had with my mother, about my grandparents' attitude to dressing. They were comfortably off, yet spent rather a bit more money on clothing whilst buying LESS than we would today. A garment was required to last, to present a positive impression of the person wearing it. I wonder if our culture's rejection of clothing restrictions (the 60's onwards...?) has let to the current attitude? Clothes became fun, experimental, mass produced........an individual no longer had to dress by a certain code (gender, etc) and could now afford to alter their look on a more frequent basis.
Back in my grandfather's day, a coat had to be saved for, and once purchased, it had to last. There was no question of tossing it out to conform with next years fashions. So perhaps mass production is the key, which led us all the way here, today, presenting us with new ethical and environmental concerns.
I recall a short story by Gogol, called The Overcoat. A poor government worker in St Petersburg loses his precious overcoat and with it, his self respect. He sets out to recover it, the coat becoming a potent symbol of his personal losses and his hopeless status within society. I was very young when I read this, and amazed by how large a role such an element of clothing played. And most of all, how impossibly difficult it was to replace. In a world before mass production and the availability of cheap garments, the creation, tailoring and maintenance of his coat was a matter of urgency, and he almost froze to death - if I recall correctly- without it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Overcoat (a link to the story)
I agree with you but just one thing that came to my mind : A.P.C. is overpriced TOO! I don't think it's manufactured in France, and it's just an example, Vanessa Bruno is not made in France either, nor are many labels whose clothes are much coveted by conscious bloggers.
Slavery is (almost) everywhere when it comes to fashion (I'm not talking about high fashion)...
I read the article you linked and this made me laugh a lot :
"(...) clothes in France are either very cheap, or very expensive. Unfortunately, since cheap clothes in France were notably throwaway in nature, the penny-pinching French decided that to really save money, they could spend only on clothes that last."
We have H&M and Zara in France, I don't know where this idea of the 'French closet' comes from but it's very wrong... Actually it's like denying the diversity of the french woman style, and the fact that some of them don't give a shit about their clothes. (You just have to go somewhere else in France than les Tuileries during the Fashion Week) :)
Alexia, I would really love to find more info about apc and other higher priced brands. Sadly I can't locate any. I have so many questions - if you can point me in any direction to read more, please do!
The passage about French women made me giggle a bit too, it's like the obligatory addition to any discussion on minimalism or chic style.
A quick google produced this:http://www.styleforum.net/t/26669/a-p-c-jeans-where-made/45
But I am not having any luck digging deeper.
The link includes discussion relating to the 'made in' labels stitched to the clothes, which are often misleading: a brand may label a garment as having been made in France, even if it was created in another country....... so long as the piece was finished in France.
Unfortunately, I don't have any articles to recommend you concerning APC (although if I find any, I will send them your way!). My statement was merely based on what I have observed, as I noticed all my APC pieces are made in countries known (not exclusively, but still) for their cheap labour, like China, Vietnam, and India. That is not to say APC necessarily uses unethical manufacturing practices, but it bothers me not to know, especially since ethical production outside of Western countries would probably be publicised. On top of that, it makes me feel like the items are even more overpriced: if a small, independant designer (here I'm using my own experience with Toujours Toi-Family Affairs) can afford to produce clothing in New York and price it similarly to APC (or, to use another example, Dace in Vancouver, Canada), I feel like I should either pay less for APC, or the same price or more if it was made in France/ethical conditions. It gives me the impression most of my money isn't paying for what I am purchasing--- but that doesn't mean I won't keep on buying APC on sale, since I find their prices more justifyable in this case.
I do remember reading something about A.P.C on outofthebag.blogspot.com, there may be a link on that post. But, this was last year sometime so if I got the reference wrong I apologise.
Here's the post I mentioned above: http://out-of-the-bag.blogspot.com/2011/11/et-tu-apc.html
J-A, yes, I remember this post:
http://out-of-the-bag.blogspot.com/2011/11/et-tu-apc.html
This is when I began to wonder, but she admits that googling didn't turn up any results regarding working conditions/sweatshops.
Camille, I agree, I'm surprised that there isn't more available information online.....it's a pity there isn't a law which requires all stores to provide it.
Couldn't agree more with Camille... When there is no clear information about the ethics of the brand, there's something wrong... And it's not just about the clothing industry, it's basically about everything we buy...
Whilst APC's designs may be lovely, the quality is not anything spectacular to demand such a high price. Even the cut of the garments and overal finshing is surrisingly poor. One could, amd has found just as visually appealing designs in the Highstreet with similar or better quality.
I do agree that purchasing poorly made clothing is a false economy, but good quality clothing does not and frequently does not come with a high price tag. Regardless of income, being enamoured with coveted designer brands makes you lose sight of the reality. They simply do not live up to their hype, nor justify their price tag.
Alexia - I have started to compile a link list featuring brands which either declare their ethics/policies or are known to source ethically. Hopefully I will be able to add more to the list as time goes by. I was surprised how many there were....but I agree with you regarding the vagueness surrounding some brands, this doesn't give me a good feeling.
If anyone can contribute to the list that would be wonderful!
Violet - Again I agree, particularly regarding several higher priced brands which let me down greatly, but as of yet, apart from one shirt, I have had nothing but decent results form apc. Still, trying to locate more info seems to lead me to a dead end, and as Alexia points out, this isn't exactly encouraging. It was apc who finally dragged me away from the high street (not 100% but near enough) as I was so delighted to have discovered durable, well made basics at a price that I could (occasionally) afford. Of course, I do have some complaints, and on the whole do not particularly agree with their pricing - and would like to know how and where the clothing is created, before the finishing touches are applied...
Does anyone know - have apc become steadily more popular in the past few yrs? Have their prices risen as a result of their growing popularity on the internet?
Aside from this, I most definitely agree with you about the hype.
I'm like you - I try to avoid the trap of fast fashion. I know I can't quit shopping, although at the moment it's pretty tempting and very possible as my wardrobe is complete, there are no gaps, there's nothing I'd need. I feel very satisfied with everything I have actually. But sometimes I want to shop just for the fun of the shopping. And then my solution is thrifting. I try to be smart about thrifting too - I avoid high street as plague (sometimes I succumb), I read labels, I go vintage whenever possible as I believe the quality and ethics was better back then. I always try to shop with my conscience.
I used to think about this at the grocery store- I don't have a big income at all and knowing that the GM foods are subsidized by the gov. to cost less, and then the range free eggs are so much more money. In terms of clothing, I dont want to support fast fashion anymore but it isnt really feasible to save for an APC coat or anything, at least not at this point in my life. I frequent thrift stores much less now, and want to restrict my "buying" of everythign to when I have more money and I can buy things I feel better about :)
Ginta - High street stores are the only stores that I have physical access to, so the temptation is definitely strong sometimes! As well as the expense, buying online from more expensive stores is so risky. I think it's great to be aware though, this is the most important thing.
Alice - Food is definitely a huge issue, and perhaps more urgent when considering health. I have found it relatively easy to switch to organic (not 100%, mind), but then I am not feeding 5 people here on this small budget......and I am not even convinced that organic is trustworthy, but perhaps I am too paranoid?
I really wanted to open discussion about what to do if we cannot afford to quit high street, but the subject didn't really evolve. This is what I mean when I refer to the 'middle ground'. If only thrifting worked well for me!
thank you for writing such an insightful article. it was a lovely read! as a college student though, i am stuck between a rock and hard place in trying to be "fashionable" and "stylish" despite in a limited budget. i would love to go and find work, but since im on a student visa i can only work on campus (and we all know how much that pays). it's really sad how it all has to come to this, but a way im trying to counter the effects of my unethical shopping is to simple shop as little as possible at these high fashion kind of stores and making sure each of my purchases will last me long enough so that i wont be tempted to buy again. i hope UNIQLO has somewhat ethical sources since the products are of such good quality however i highly doubt it since it is quite "cheap". another solution i found is also to thrift more, since the clothes are already made long ago and the resources used to make them is already consumed and used so i find this the more ethical money saving solution :)
Joy, you sound a little like myself as a student, and it is so difficult to locate ethically sourced items on a budget - unless you save for those rare treats, which in itself is often impossible for those who are not receiving parental assistance of some sort. There are so few options, and vintage isn't always able to deliver exactly what we need. This is the part which frustrates me the most, and nobody should feel bad about being in such a position....and I have a feeling that these companies prefer to target those who CAN afford to purchase and dispose of fast fashion on a very regular basis, and precisely why such stores are restocked with new and 'exciting' products on an almost daily basis (topshop restock around 5 days per week). They would prefer us to become addicts, and to never even give thought to production methods, quality or durability. And of course, students are a fabulous target, especially if you promise them rewards with a store card.........
You sound as though you are aware, and are doing the best that you can. This is all any of us can do, financially speaking. :)